...Swiss Alps, 2008

Sunday, May 4, 2014

Goedendag  and Tot ziens  Amsterdam

Goedendag  and Tot ziens  Amsterdam

That would be...hello and goodbye Amsterdam.  No, I cannot pronounce either word, or any other Dutch words i try, by the laughter each time I try.  I don't mind that, I like to make people smile so if speaking Dutch does that , then Dutch it is!

I may have only spent a day and a half here...but my adventures will take a lot of time and words...so get ready...and Welkom to Amsterdam...

I arrived by train from Paris...on time this trip.  It was a cool, sunny day, unlike my delayed train arriving to torrential rains on my last trip.  Quite easily I met the lady who had been helping me make my plans online.  She helped me so much plan the things I'd hoped to do, including riding her bike to check out the distances I would have to walk to catch the flower parade.  She is an American married to a Dutch man so she understood the American kinds of things I wanted to know...one example, she knows how Europeans tend to say everything is a five minute walk and it could be much, much longer.  She appreciated all that I do alone and wanted to help me with questions I had along the way.  She is such a nice person so I'm glad I got to meet her and have her help for a while, so nice to be with someone who speaks the local language.  I'd forgotten the luxury of that since it has been so long since Cesar and I traveled together and he was able to communicate with almost all who came across our path.

We waited a bit for the hotel shuttle after we met at the airport when my train arrived, and then I dropped my things off at the hotel at the amsterdam airport I would return to the next day.  We boarded the bus to the town where the tulip gardens are.  I'd ended up reserving a room at the last minute to be close to the gardens rather than having to arrive by bus the next day.  That bus is the least expensive and most convenient way for me to get there.  Then the taxis are lined up there and I could get one to my hotel inexpensively.

We enjoyed more time visiting and then she made sure I got a taxi before her husband drove there to pick her up.  Interesting experience.  She is American and it is not obvious she speaks other languages.  She was able to understand as the head driver told the other what to charge me.  I'd been told it would be 10-15 euros and in Arabic and Dutch the taxi people discussed getting the most money from me, unaware she understood every word.  They will be in trouble, she will be letting the gardens know because that is not the way they are supposed to be doing business.  Of course I didn't know that at the time, but she said in English they were charging me 15 euros so at that point they knew she had understood.  The driver seemed nice and said I could pay him 10 if I wanted and I did.  So there I was checking into the nice hotel I had stayed at two years before.  There was a problem, a large group of uk people had checked into this small hotel and several of them were complaining at length about their rooms.  The girl behind the desk was almost in tears since there was no pleasing them.  Unfortunately, just before I walked in, my room had been given to two ladies who complained and I had to wait, even though it was well after the check in time, for them to get out of their room, which would now be my room.  I wasn't pleased, when the girl took me up to the room, way up steep stairs, it was clear they had settled in before deciding they didn't want to be there.  I felt sorry for the girl and there was nothing they could do, they were fully booked and I was stuck with a used room.  No discount because I'd prepaid   And already had breakfast with the room.  So I just sucked it up and will remind them if I ever stay again and maybe I'll get a discount.  At least when you check into a hotel room you like to think it is fresh and clean, although with all that has come out about that, it could be an illusion.  So I knew and got clean towels and a clean pillow case and was fine.  

Then it was time for one of the highlights...my Dutch pancake!  Oh, i'd looked forward to that!  This hotel is a short walk...short walk, that in itself was a pleasant thought after all my long treks in Paris, short walk to the restaurant  that I love in that town.  Last year this is the place where the taxi never came and the owners had to drive me back to the hotel because I was stranded.  I arrived and asked the server if I could say hello to the owners and she just led me right into the kitchen...oh what a greeting I got!  They definitely remembered me and the man stopped his cooking and came over and gave me a big hug and kisses.  His wife smiled a lot but was more reserved.  They were so impressed that once again their restaurant had been my first stop in town.  Oh, I do love their Dutch pancakes!  Yes, that is plural...first, the one covered with bacon (which is more like our ham), onions, mushrooms and cheese.  This is all baked into the very flat pancake which more resembles a crepe than our pancakes.  I chatted with some of the people who came in, it is a tiny place and there were other tourists, and on my recommendation, most people were eating pancakes.   When I had savored to the fullest the main dish pancake, it was time for the dessert one.  I ordered the banana one...it came open as they all do, topped with a sliced banana, small scoops of ice cream, whipped cream, powdered sugar and banana liquer.  The sweet server asked if I wanted a small one?  No, I said I'd traveled 5000 miles and didn't know when I'd ever have it again, so the regular one would be fine...oh, how delicious it was...just like I remembered.  Mission accomplished...one more favorite food enjoyed this trip!

A short walk to the hotel and then the long climb into the room and my day had ended...with dreams of tulips I drifted to sleep...

Next day, my alarm was set for quite early.  I was up during the night, as I am almost every night in Europe.  It isn't just the jet lag I realized, it is my excitement over the day to come.  It used to be worry, but now with my experience I don't worry because I know all will go well, and if not, well it works out somehow and that proved to be true on this day.  So I was awake with anticipation of the flower filled day to come.

I've been to the gardens 3 other times.  Once on a ships cruise and twice on my own.  Each of the last 2 visits and this one have been within a day of each other and yet every year what greets me is different.  Two years ago, the gardens were in full bloom and magnificent!  Last year the late winter delayed the blooming and I saw very few tulips and many hyacinths and daffodils.  I was disappointed, tulips are my love there.  This year a totally different experience, the tulips bloomed early and were well past their prime.  That is what I'd heard, but I was still excited to see the gardens, the landscaping is lovely and at least there would be some tulips left to enjoy.

This trip had a first, the one day I had to visit the gardens happened to be the busiest day of the year, the day of the big flower parade.  I'd almost canceled the visit to the gardens, 1,000,000 people were expected to see the parade as it traveled through the country, and over 60,000 would be visiting the gardens.  Then I decided I would just make it 1,000,001 and partake in the experience.  It is hard to explain the continuous planning and rearranging that went into making the logistics work.  The previous times I've arrived at the gardens before opening and been the first or second in.  I'd planned on a visit early and hoped to slip out before the crowds.  Well so much for planning, the crowds were there and waiting when I arrived 20 minutes before opening.  I was impressed the gardens opened early, quite considerate considering all the people waiting...I've not ever seen anywhere that did that.  I had checked out of the hotel and had my rolling tote with me so I stored it in a locker there.  That way when I left I wouldn't have to go back into the town traffic to get it.

So perhaps this time I was the hundredth or so in.  It didn't matter.  I felt lucky because I am familiar with the layout and while most people were oohing and ahhing at the entrance and down the main walkway, I was off on a side path that wasn't even noticed by most.  I was pleased that I was going to have some time after all to enjoy the peace, solitude, birds and flowers for a bit before sharing with the crowds.  And that I did.  Yes, there were a lot of places where the flowers had been headed, but many beautiful flowers had awaited my arrival.  I'm looking forward to seeing my pictures and hoping for some beautiful ones.  The green, previous blooming areas, were probably not focused on by most, the thrill of spending time tip toeing through the tulips was probably the focus.

I ended up spending more time than I'd expected and after purchasing a couple of little things and my calendar I was off on the next step of my day.  Well, after a stop for a sugar waffle that is.  It is like the ones I love in Belgium.  And as I attempted to leave the gardens I truly came up against a wall of people flowing in!   I've never seen anything like it...not a gap as far as I could see, for me to walk towards the exit, they came by the hundreds.  Almost a scary scene as I picture it in my mind now.  I eventually made it out of the craziness and was glad I was out of there!  I felt some people were so rude and inconsiderate, but most were enthralled with the beauty, at least what they could see of it.  Do not visit the gardens on parade day!

I went out to the information office and they called the one taxi driver that could work there that day and directed me to the main road outside of the gardens where he would pick me up in 15 minutes.  My plan was to attend the flower parade in a small village a few miles away, where not many people were expected to be.  It goes through the countryside so local people ride their bikes to get away from the crowds and watch from the country roads.  My plan was the best way I could think of to get away from the crowds and be able to see the parade flower floats.  But, alas, it wasn't to be.  The taxi driver never showed up, probably in some terrible traffic, so after waiting almost an hour, until I knew it was too late to make the parade in the village, I started the long walk(for me) back up to the gardens to take the bus to the airport and go to my hotel there.  

There is a bus that goes from the airport to the gardens and back, and on this day they had doubled the buses I'd been told.  I was dragging , rather than rolling, my rolling tote.  Wheels don't work in the fine gravel they had on the roads.  I was hiking back up to where I could get a bus back, thinking I'd be the only one heading back that early.  A bus headed back came up the road and I waved and he kindly opened the door.  I asked if he was returning and if I could ride with him.  He said there was a long line up at the gardens for the return buses but he was going back empty to get more people.  I wasn't sure I would make the walk back up there or even be able to stand in a long line.  My feet had served me well all morning and were done.  I told him my situation, had waited almost an hour on the main road for the taxi and now would miss the parade.  He took pity on me, told me to get on and he would be my private driver back to the airport.  He wouldn't let me pay him, he said it was a gift for me.  How kind!  We really had a nice time, there wasn't traffic that direction and he was happily telling me about different parts of his country.  The 30 minute ride was pleasant and when we arrived I couldn't thank him enough for his kindness.  As I left my private bus, I was shocked at what I saw...the line to board the buses to the garden wound  around the entire railing area they had arranged and went in front of the airport from end to end...an unbelievable sight!  Everyone calm in spite of the very long wait to board the buses that would take them into the masses of more people.  I regretted that my plan to see the famous parade didn't work out, but was quite relieved I would be far from the madness of that many people!

I called the hotel for the shuttle and within minutes I was headed to my hotel.  Oh, how nice a nap would be...but how could I sleep with so many things to see!  I checked in and was appalled to find out wifi in the room would cost almost 30 euros!  Outrageous!  When I walked in my room and saw some slippers on the bed, I decided that maybe they should give guests the wifi and charge 30 euros for the slippers, those I could live without.  I wanted to look up ideas and info for the city on line but had to go back down to the lobby to do that...a pain!

There were two young men that were the bellmen, concierge, drivers and they were incredibly helpful!  I have decided that the people in that position are my favorite people in the hotel industry.  In every case, they are the most helpful and most considerate of all.  So here they were great and one of them was from the town were the parade ended at night and he encouraged me to go there to see it.  I was happy that I would see it after all...well at least I thought I would see it.  So what to do in the afternoon?  Sleep sounded good, it had already been a busy day, but how could I do that on my last day in Amsterdam? I couldn't...so I repacked my day bag and off I went again...2nd big adventure of the day. 

Bought a train ticket from the airport to the central station and headed in with the plan to visit the big museum there.when I arrived there were mobs of people everywhere.  How could that be?  I was sure they were all at the gardens!  But apparently there were enough people in town to fill up the city too.  I was soon on a tram, through crowded streets, to the ryksmuseum...a lady I talked to told me what I should see there, good thing, I wouldn't want to miss anything important.  I didn't spend long there, but enjoyed it.  Again, I had found another place that was packed though, so leaving sooner rather than later was fine with me. I love Impressionism paintings, but must admit that seeing Rembrandt's paintings in person was thrilling.  The opportunity to see things in person like that make it easy to see why they are masterpieces.  Different, but amazing and I was so glad I went.

Made the long journey to the hotel and again, so tempted I was to just lie down and sleep, but I resisted.  It was my last night in Europe so I just had to have one last experience...the flower parade.  And what an experience it was!

First I had to head to Harlaam, a very nice town in the Netherlands.  I think I may be spelling it wrong.  That was a new town for me so I left the hotel with explicit details of what to do to get to the town and then to the parade.  So off I went on bus 300, one last big adventure...

I must have slept a bit because the 45 minute bus trip was quite short, just glad I woke up in time for my stop.  I got off the bus and asked directions to the parade.  As with many  main bus stations, it was not in the best of places.  Not the worst either.  What happened next reminded me of an incident from long ago...

I was in France with a friend, her brother and Cesar.  It was my first trip to Europe not being on a cruise and I was terrified of everything, the same trip I'd gotten lost on.  We were in Place de Concorde and Cesar turned me to face him and said I had to promise not to panic when he told me something.  I didn't want to promise, it may have been our first trip together but I knew him well enough to know not to promise anything.  He wouldn't give up and finally I decided it couldn't be anything so bad since we were in Paris so what was I to do?  I promised that I wouldn't panic as long as he wasn't going to leave me alone.  He then turned me toward the arc de triomphe, in the very, very far distance and told me we were going to walk there!  I got upset and said that was impossible and he said we would go slowly, stop when we needed to, but we would be walking down the Champs d'Élysées!  He said I'd promised not to get upset, and off we went.  I knew my feet were so bad that I would never make it! But I did, and what an accomplishment that was!  

Well here I was, alone now, and when I asked where the main square was and a man on the street pointed to a church way, way down the street, I knew there was no way I would ever make it.  At the church i had to turn to get to where the parade would be.  I asked a taxi in the long taxi line to take me as close as possible and he refused, didn't want to lose his place in line for such a short trip!  He told me the roads were closed for the parade.  Well he was lying, the road was open all the way to the church, but not beyond.  So I had a decision to make, try to make the long walk both ways or turn around and give up and take the next bus back.  Old me, would have turned back in a minute.  New me decided I could make it and I really wanted to see that beautiful flower parade.  (try to focus on beautiful...I'd heard that since the tulips bloomed three weeks early they had to use hyacinths instead but it would be beautiful!). So off I went, slow and steady...well very slow and not so steady.  
Another thing that concerned me was that I didn't see anyone anywhere.  If there were a parade, wouldn't everyone be flocking to it?  Eventually I came to a man washing his car windows and he said I was indeed going the right way and the people would be gathering later.  Apparently I was early.  So trudge ahead I did and finally I was at the church and people were going both directions so I asked a policeman where to go.  He told me the best place was a couple of blocks further and I said I couldn't walk any further.  I asked him if it was going to be safe walking that far down that dark street alone after the parade and he said I wouldn't be alone and it was probably safer than wherever I am from in the states, the only difference is that people might be high on drugs.  I told him I was from Colorado so that wasn't any different.  He and the other police around them laughed and we talked a bit about that.  I asked why there weren't many people there and he said the parade had a big delay, one of the trucks had broken down and created it.  He wasn't sure when it would be arriving.  

I wasn't hungry, did I mention I did stop for frietes with joppiesaus when I was in Amsterdam?  I love that sauce, it is a sweet, mustardy sauce with onions...another of my favorite Dutch foods.  I like different sauces on my Belgian frietes, but this one is the best in holland for me.  But there wasn't a place to sit without buying something so I decided on another new experience and headed to a Mexican restaurant.  It was very cold out, even with my zip in lining in my coat, so I decided to go inside and warm up until the parade arrived. And I was interested in just what a Dutch Mexican restaurant was like...another new experience.

I had the most delightful server.  A darling kid in a bright pink ruffley shirt, yes, I guess it was rather fitting.  That in itself was funny enough, but he was so funny.  I said I just had to find out what Dutch Mexican food tasted like and he said it would be similar to texmex, but DutchMex instead.  I asked how he knew about texmex in the Netherlands.  So I ordered something simple and when it came I took a bite of the cheese balls, a Mexican food I'd never heard of before, and it was so hot, temp hot.  Think it must have been a DutchMex food after all.  I finished that and the quacamole which tasted not too real and then headed out...surely the parade was almost there.

I talked to another policeman, a big Dutch man and he was so funny.  We chatted a lot and waited and waited and waited.  Then out of the blue a car came driving down the street, and both policemen were there in an instant making him turn around.  I'd told them I needed a taxi and Made them laugh when I asked if they would get that car back to give me a ride back to the station.  It was bitter cold by then, I'd decided to sit at one of the outdoor cafes hoping they would let me sit and they did.  I was next to a young couple and they were telling me about how beautiful the parade is.  Okay, I'm freezing...my feet hurt...I'm beyond exhausted...I had a LONG walk back for a LONG bus ride...I had to pack and be up early for the flight home...and there I sit in a little town in the Netherlands waiting for a parade.  Now I don't know if anyone has thought of this yet...but I hadn't...it was now after 10 PM...and very dark!  Finally my new friend came over and told me he just got word that the parade would really be there in 5 minutes.

Do you know what beautiful flower floats look like in the dark?  Let me tell you, it doesnt look like much!  eventually I found out...they look like a bunch of dark flowers!!  Eventually one float came by and another and another, 4 of the 16 floats passed by in the dark heading to the main square to park.   End of parade...the other floats seem to have not made it.  What I went through to see a flower parade in the cold, dark night was unbelievable!  But luckily I was too tired to care, I was more concerned about the very long walk back and finding my way. The policeman was so nice when I left and if I ever find myself there again, well I hope our paths cross.  Probably not, but for a night he made it fun to be at the flower parade.  

Not my best plan or experience...but I guess that journey was special in a way, who else will ever have a parade story like mine!  :-). 

I made the walk back, found the station and the right bus and I must have looked as bad as I felt because the rather gruff driver would not let me pay the 5 euros for my ticket, he said the trip was on him.  So many kind people along the way that day!  So I wonder, do I say I saw the flower parade or not!?

Checking in at the airport in Amsterdam has changed...now you have to take out every electronic device, camera AND cord at security!  I carry all my chargers with me and I kept pulling them out, more and more and finally the man told me I'd taken out enough...and on I went.  The business lounge was the barest of service and the plane so old it sounded scary...travel today has changed...

End of story...end of trip...and now I return home to my four legged friends anxiously awaiting my return...au revoir Europe...carry on without me...

Saturday, May 3, 2014

Au revoire Paree...

Au revoir Paree...

Time has flown!  Not sure if that is just an American saying, but I would guess there is something comparable in other cultures...I'll need to find out.

A quick trip to the tower in the early hours of the morning preceded my departure.  First trip there by bus.  I enjoyed the ride, it was school time and rather than seeing parents walking their kids to school like in my neighborhood, there they were getting on the city bus together and getting off a few stops later.  Kids with their hair just right and parents so kind and gentle with them.  A sweet morning to observe.  The tower, well, I have to admit it has lost some of its daytime glamour for me.  I find the twinkling magical, next time it will have to be an evening visit.

In Paris the streets aren't always easy to follow, there are 'forks' that can create confusion, for me at least.  That is what happened when I was very lost on my first visit and I was truly panicked when I was wandering lost and alone for over an hour. Long story...but it was back when I was terrified in a faraway country and I hadn't left Cesar's side, and the two block walk alone back from the mall almost resulted in an emotional collapse as I wandered with no one helping.  I was a bit nervous about the two block walk to the bus stop, and to my amazement the concierge of my rather dumpy , but well located hotel, walked me there!  I was so I impressed and relieved.  Well, I found out he isn't the concierge officially, he is the baggage man, but he has taken very good care of me for my 3 visits there!  I have found that the bellmen and the concierge are the best people at a hotel!

My visit was uneventful, but here I was on my last outing before getting the train to Amsterdam and I'd not yet had a crepe!  One of the stands at the tower was open...so breakfast my last morning was my favorite crepe...simple with butter and sugar.  I'm not sure why, maybe because it was early and I had little sleep, but rather than saying bonjour, I said bom dia, which is a greeting in Portuguese...and when he said it back, I realized I'd spoken the wrong greeting. I asked if he was making fun of me and he replied he is Portuguese!  How strange that was, to have made that mistake with him!  We discussed Portugal a bit and then I was on my way back to the hotel...by metro, I prefer it, but the thought of the climbing up and down so many stairs makes me weak to think about after all the climbing I did!  Pretty sure I walked that crepe right off!

I stopped at the boulangerie for a couple of treats to take with me as I left the beautiful city.  I even had one more croque Monsieur and it was delicious, course #2 for breakfast.

I finished packing and the very kind bellman actually loaded my things up on his cart and walked me to the station...how nice that was!  While I was waiting until it was time to leave, he was telling me he travels 120 km each way from his home.  He has 3 children and his wife, an engineer, has been out of work for 5 years.  The economy is hurting people all over the world.

Soon I boarded the train for Amsterdam and off we went, I with my very quiet American seatmate...au revoir Paree, until next time!

Friday, May 2, 2014

Tour tours, or perhaps Tours Tour

Tour Tours or perhaps...Tours Tour?

Whatever it is, the tour of Tours was a wonderful new experience!   As much as I love doing my favorite things, it is always nice to add a new experience, something outside my comfort zone.  Who knows it could become something I would like to add to my favorite places to visit, or simply somewhere else to say I've seen.   Last trip was Chamonix, beautiful.  This time the chateaux of the Loire Valley 'called my name'.  

Years ago when I was teaching elementary school, I used to teach about the world.  I wanted children to be intrigued and familiar enough with the world to want to travel and experience far away places.  Poor things, they sat through some travelogues that I thought were informative and beautiful.  That included one on France.  Many beautiful places and maybe that is where the desire began, to someday travel around the country in a car with someone who spoke French and could drive us everywhere.  That long time dream didn't come true, but I have had bits and pieces of it come true...I've had a driver twice and seen some beautiful countryside.  I've been on buses in many parts of France, so I've gotten close to my dream, but maybe one day it will come true and I will have a lot more time to wander the countryside and the charming villages tucked away.  Someday...perhaps, but if not, oh what sights I've seen anyway...

Back to the travelogue...there was the most amazing castle built over a river, simply magnificent.  I watched the video year after year in amazement.  Never, never, never had I ever dreamed I would see that castle!  And here I was, planning a trip to the part of the country where that castle stood!  I did a lot of research and finally I had the new adventure planned!  And it included a trip to the very castle in the video!  I truly believe that my life the last 7 years has proved that ANYTHING is possible!  

Finally the day arrived when I would be getting an early taxi to Gare Montparnasse, for an early train to Tours for a morning tour of the chateaux. A lot for a day, and as always I was sure it would not be long enough to get the whole experience, but a taste is better than nothing.  There were several chateaux to choose from, but there was no question that I would be heading to Chenonceau, the chateau across the river!  Imagine that...

I travel alone now, and make the most of it.  I love traveling alone most of the time, making my own decisions and being able to go at my own pace without inconveniencing anyone else.  I can't walk as far or as fast as others and always feel badly if anyone has to adjust their pace or plans for me.  

If you have read this blog for a while, you might remember the amazing encounter with the lady from San Francisco who I helped with ideas for the Greek islands and actually met when we were in the same place at the same time on that trip.  It was a delightful encounter and we stay in touch.  Well, after sharing my itinerary in Paris, she contacted me and let me know that she would be there at the same time...absolutely amazing! 

I love traveling on trains, such ease compared to airports.  I get so excited when I am in the train stations now, it always seems to represent how far I've come...to myself.  I used to be terrified to walk into the large areas with trains lined up by numbers and letters, and try to figure out anything.  Thanks to repeated experiences with Cesar, I learned how to do things, and now I'm close to being a pro at it.  No more fears or needing to hold on to anyone, just the thrill of the journey to come.

My friend has not had the opportunity to travel with an experienced train 'guide', so she asked if she could join me on my journey to Tours.  I know she is as independent as I am and I know she would be fine wandering on her own along the way if we wanted to do our own things.  It was going to work out perfectly, as so many last minute things do.  I changed my mind many times in my planning, I won't even go into all of the ideas I had, so when my final itinerary was planned, I only had a couple of days to get everything in place.   She was able to make it work too, so there we were meeting at a train station in Paris a year and a half after meeting in Greece...

Things went great, we found each other easily in the early hours of the morning at the station and before we knew it, we were on the high speed train to our Loire valley adventure.  I thought I'd done enough research and thought I knew what to expect on the day, since it was a holiday.  Seemed like many things there would be open, but that was not the case.  As always, the only choice was to make the best of the situation.  

We arrived on time and had plenty of time to cross the street to the tourist office where the vans were waiting to whisk us away to our chosen destinations.  We were the only two for the 1/2 day tour.  I am not a good guided tour person, too independent and not always so interested in The information.  So I chose a tour that basically got us to two places and we were on our own...and one of the castles did not interest me so I opted to wander the village instead.  Charming!  Not many stores were open, but we came across one filled with local products, and the owner was so helpful and even showed us the picture of his little girl as a baby used on many of his labels.  A delightful store to explore.  We tried some macaroons from another store, they were as tasteless as the rude owner had been.  The hour there passed quickly and soon we were in the van headed to what for me, would be the highlight of the day...the castle over the river!

Our driver got our tickets and soon we were making the trek up to the house...through the gift shop...found a couple of things I just had to have...later.  As we were walking up the tree lined path it began to rain, and of course i had left my raincoat in the van.  I shared my friends umbrella part of the way, but rain doesn't bother me so it was fine.  The grounds were lovely!  At least it wasn't hot, I do hate heat.  Rain is okay with me, I just didn't get many pictures because of it.  I'm hoping the few I did take turn out nicely.  

I so enjoyed Windsor castle, but I wasn't so interested in this 'home'.  We entered and it was mobbed with people...not the way to enjoy the setting.  Too many people were crowded in every part.  All I really wanted to do was to walk over the part that crossed the river, and that I did.  It was unbelievable that I was standing in a castle over a river that I'd seen so long ago...an unimaginable happening.  And quite pleasing, to say the least.  Both of us were fine escaping the mass crowds inside.  There were beautiful gardens on both sides of the chateaux, and I'd have enjoyed them if it weren't raining.  I was very slow on the walk back.  Sometimes I wonder how I do what I do, so much walking certainly is difficult for me.  

We were back in the van a bit early and soon we were headed back through the countryside to the town.  Neither of us regretted only taking the 1/2 day tour.  Now we would have time to head to the old town where we were told things would be open.  We took a taxi and enjoyed walking around the square, but it seemed the only things open were restaurants.  We came to a place and two men were eating what looked like a delicious meal.  I kindly asked what they had, and they didn't seem to mind our inquiry.  It was a burger, but with chicken, and topped with goats cheese and boysenberry (I believe) jam.  Well it looked and sounded delicious so that is what I ordered...and I have to say it did not taste as good as it looked, but I am very glad I tried it so I would find that out.  I like the hamburger I got in Denver that has green chilis, peanut butter and raspberry jam on it, much better...but when in Tours...

After lunch we started wandering, a charming town but not much was open.  As we wandered it started raining, and quite hard...camera back in bag, darn.  We had a few more minutes before needing to have someone call us the taxi to return to the station for our train when a cute little white and blue train came down the street.  I thought that must be the tram I'd heard about.  I'd heard it would be working on the holiday, then heard it wouldn't be when we arrived...but it appeared this was it after all.  I motioned for it to stop and The very kind, very cute young man driving took pity on two ladies in the rain and stopped to let us board when I asked if that went to the train station.  It was very cold and I was very wet and it was very nice to climb inside for a dry, but cold, drive to the train.  We were told to sit in the second car so we would be in the English narrated area.  I'm not sure what it even said, I was just pleased to have squeezed one more experience into our day.

The wait for the train was luckily uneventful.  We boarded and waited to leave.  As I sat there, police after police walked by, bulletproof vests on, and guns showing.  That was a bit unnerving, I'd not seen that before.  So when the young man came by to check my ticket, I asked what was going on.  He said there had been a man causing problems in a car ahead of us who had been taken off by the police.  I wished I would have known the whole story but he was not going to tell me anymore, so that was that.  There was a kind lady across from me, traveling from the burgundy region to Paris for a conference for german teachers.  We had a nice discussion on the hour long high speed train two teacher's with cultural education stories to share.

I do have to say that our image is quite skewed to many Europeans.  There seems to be a concept of extensive violence in the US.  I guess when you think about it, they hear a lot about all the people fighting to keep their guns in spite of all the violent shootings, and almost a wild west setting is perceived.  It makes no sense to many in europe.  Interesting to hear and think about what others think of us.  I do enjoy the variety of conversations one can have on a train.  And I seem to be lucky to enjoy many.  (right now I am writing this on the train from Paris to Amsterdam and unfortunately I am next to an American man...and he is not interested in any exchange...fine with me, I just feel cheated having a 3 hour train trip and no stimulating conversation...wish I could request a European seatmate!). But, hey, it gives me time to catch up with my blog.

On arriving back in Paris, my friend and I ventured outside the station trying to decide how to travel to our hotels.  There were big threatening dark clouds in the sky, and I decided the metro would be best.  There was a crepe stand outside but I just wasn't hungry then so I passed the opportunity to enjoy my favorite kind of crepe, a simple one with sugar, perhaps later.

While people watching and making the decision about heading to the hotel, I saw the perfect dog...a couple and their daughter walked by with a lively white golden retriever puppy!  Beautiful pure white!  I just fell in love with 5 month old Happy!  She was a doll!  I chatted with the parents, the father spoke very good English because he was an attorney who worked with NY attorneys.  I told him how expensive that beautiful breed was in the US and he shared that they had paid 900 euros for her.  I've seen so many in Europe I really had thought they were cheaper.  Good thing they aren't cheap, I would be coming home with one for sure!  And I don't think it would be welcomed by my two best 4 legged friends!  So happy departed and so did my idea of getting a puppy in France!

A long walk led us to the metro that was a straight shot to my hotel.  My plan was to drop off my things at 'home' and then head out to see the sparkling Eiffel tower.  It is so beautiful to see!  I was heading toward the exit of the metro and people walking in were drenched and shaking their heads at me as I was heading out into the pouring rain.  Now that I finally figured out the right exit from the #4 metro, I actually end up less than 10 steps from the front of my hotel so I didn't worry about getting on my raincoat for the short trip in the pouring rain.  

I had woken up at 3 AM, still not totally adjusted to the time change and it appears I was quite a bit more exhausted than I'd thought.  I sat on the bed and realized I was hungry so I had a bit of bread and a small individual container of peanut butter...quite Parisian, no?  I was so exhausted I repacked my travel bag for the evening, but decided to rest...set my alarm for an hour...and at 8 PM when it went off, I couldn't move...so much for the view of the twinkling Eiffel tower! 

 My day was over...





Thursday, May 1, 2014

Me in Paree...a Celebration

Me in Paree!

I'm not sure life could get any better!  A day in Paris...

 Long, long ago, 36 years to be exact, April 30th was the day I got married.  I  had a dream wedding, flowers galore, beautiful live music, food to die for...at a Marriott hotel where flowers and candles floated in the indoor pool in the reception room at the top of the hotel with quite a view.  What a celebration!  My mother had been planning that since the day I was born.  Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately, the wedding far exceeded the marriage and I was divorced before my first anniversary.  Although that was a lifetime, or more, ago, I still remember that magical day each year and try to do something special to celebrate.  It's quiet, most people are unaware of it, but it is special to me.  This year was no exception.  Once again I celebrated life and my memories...in Paris!  

Whatever I end up doing is the right thing...and this year it was a day of celebrating the brave person I've become and the adventurous spirit that was hidden for so long...a day to explore new and favorite places.

My first stop, the boulangerie down the street from the hotel for some wonderful French breads and pastries.  I wanted the delicious olive bread I'd had on my last visit, and the man told me he would make it and to return after 11, but in the meantime I sampled other treats.  I took things to my room and then got directions for the places I wanted to see.  This hotel is a bit dumpy, but the location couldn't be better for me.  The morning concierge is fantastic!  He speaks enough English that I understand him and he plans things for me in the easiest way.  So soon I was off on new adventures!  (Much less stressful than that big adventure I embarked on 36 years ago.)

My friend from the train had recommended a beautiful chapel, he said go on a sunny day and it will feel like you are standing inside a crystal room with the sun shining through with 360 degrees of stained glass windows...and yes, the sun was shining so I was on my way to stand in crystal!  I'm getting to be quite a pro on the metro now so I find it quite easy to navigate.  Sometimes there are long, long walks, and oh so many stairs, but what a way to get around town!  so off I went, feeling quite confident and proud.  I emerged from the metro station and saw signs to my destination, but no one was around...stores were closed and streets almost empty...I found one small shop open and asked the man what was going on, he said it is only 8:30 and nothing is open yet.  8:30!?  Well I guess I'd gotten too early a start for my desire to stand in crystal...so what is there to do?  

Wander, of course.  A couple of blocks up I saw Notre Dame cathedral and I've not been there since my first trip to Paris 7 years ago.  So I followed the sounds of the bell chiming, so beautiful!  My first time there was on a Sunday so I was able to experience the beautiful organ music of the service.  Quite moving, whatever your religion.  So I entered and enjoyed the beautiful, historic church.  There were a handful of people praying, some wandering like me.  

After that visit I headed back to the chapel that had been my original destination.  I arrived with about 20 minutes to wait, and there was a line, but not a long one and soon I was going through security, buying my ticket and heading to stand in a crystal chapel.  Well.....as happens from time to time, things aren't as expected!  My friend had drawn a picture of what I would be seeing and a door to the side that can be missed, behind which is a flight of very narrow spiral stairs leading to the upper floor where the crystal shines in all it's glory.  So with his expert advice I was one of the first to slip through the door and able to enjoy the beauty for a moment or two, before the room filled up.  However, a large part of the room was closed off for renovation, so much for the 360 degrees of stained glass...but there was one part of the room that the sun was shining through and the beauty was unbelievable!  It truly looked magical and I can only imagine that room when the sun hits it all, not a bit of exaggeration by my new friend!  I've been so many places with stained glass windows, but have never witnessed that kind of beauty created so long ago by artists, and accentuated by the sun!  Perhaps I'll return some day to see it all.

After that new experience, it was back on the metro to head to the famous cemetery.  I had heard of it only recently and thought it would be a nice new experience.  It was beautiful!  Reminded me of the large cemetery we saw in buenos aires, although not as shiny and fancy.  I walked and walked and only wished I would go so much further!  I didn't see the grave sites I'd hoped to see, but it was a lovely place to wander...maybe next time I'll see the graves of Chopin, Jim Morrison, and Heloise and Abelard...maybe...

On emerging from the cemetery, I saw a corner cafe, time to rest my feet and get a bit of lunch.  I had a cheese and tomato panini...and a 4 euro 30 cent coke!  I'd no idea the drink would be so expensive!  Back to tap water for me!  

After resting I headed back down to the metro and made the journey back to the hotel, with one chase of trains along the way...yep, I'm such a pro now!  I went back to the boulangerie and my loaf of olive bread was ready, warm and delicious.  Just a short time and I'll be having Dutch cheese with it!

I dropped off my things and rested.  It is hard to rest here but my feet need it.  Ten I made the decision to follow through with my original plan to spend a part of my anniversary in my favorite village and garden.  My French artist friend had written that he'd had to leave town suddenly for his mother so I wouldn't be seeing him.  I was disappointed, but that is just up how life is.  The gardens were still there and that is a place I love, with or without special people.  So soon I was out and on my way to a different part of Paris to get the train there.  

It was in the afternoon and there were several young people I chatted with along the way.  Three delightful young ladies were headed there because it was a place they wanted to see while they were here with their study abroad program.  what fun things they had done to take advantage of this once in a lifetime opportunity to be in Europe with no other cares than to study.  They had met up along the way.  I told several people about the other sights to see and on the train ride back I was happy to hear that they had all done the extra things too.

Ah the gardens!  Magnificent as always!  Magical, enchanting...and oh how I wished all the people would go home!  I sat on a green bench and soaked in the scents and scenes of one of my favorite places in the world!  Too many people though.  Not once did I get to enjoy the wisteria laden bridge without people crowded on there...perhaps next year.  But as I do a lot in my travels, I just realize how incredibly lucky I am to be doing what I'm doing and that is enough!   

I left the beauty of the gardens to wander a bit.  I'd enlarged a photo I'd taken of the historic hotel there and headed there to drop that off.  Then I decided I had a bit of time to eat before heading to the bus so I would enjoy a meal at their restaurant where I've eaten before.  I was taken to a table in the lovely setting, the only sounds were children laughing and playing far away and birds chirping....such beautiful sounds as I looked out over the meadow beyond.  I asked what the specialty was and decided that was for me.  It was a crepe with cheese and seasonings, quite light, covered with a cream sauce...absolutely divine!  They brought me a big bowl of frites and said to dip them in the cream sauce, quite a delicious Idea I will say.  I savored all the specialness of the food and setting, as my anniversary dinner.  and then it was time to head for the bus that would take us to the train back to Paris.  

It was a nice ride back, an hour journey with the young people sharing their afternoon experiences.  I was so impressed at the appreciation for all that they saw!  At their age I was unaware this place even existed!  But the world is a smaller place now and I'm happy to see so many appreciate the beauty.  

Arriving back in Paris I was shocked to see the terrible traffic, it was already 8 PM.  I decided to take the bus back to my hotel but was surprised to find it was not the same bus number that got me there..uh oh...

Luckily two of the young men I'd met, came wandering by.  They lived in Houston and had moved to Paris to start a bar, but it hadn't worked out and they too, are seeing all they can before going back to the states.  One is fluent in French so he was a great help.  They found the bus stop for me and insisted on walking me there, again, such kind people along my way...I insisted they not wait with me, I'd be fine and after warm goodbyes they were gone.  

The wait for the bus was long, so busy there at night!  I arrived at my hotel thoroughly exhausted and filled with the joy of another wonderful day, wandering the world, and celebrating...ahh, sweet dreams...


This day wasn't filled with new friends, this day was packed with sightseeing from start to end!