Goedendag and Tot ziens Amsterdam

Goedendag  and Tot ziens  Amsterdam

That would be...hello and goodbye Amsterdam.  No, I cannot pronounce either word, or any other Dutch words i try, by the laughter each time I try.  I don't mind that, I like to make people smile so if speaking Dutch does that , then Dutch it is!

I may have only spent a day and a half here...but my adventures will take a lot of time and words...so get ready...and Welkom to Amsterdam...

I arrived by train from Paris...on time this trip.  It was a cool, sunny day, unlike my delayed train arriving to torrential rains on my last trip.  Quite easily I met the lady who had been helping me make my plans online.  She helped me so much plan the things I'd hoped to do, including riding her bike to check out the distances I would have to walk to catch the flower parade.  She is an American married to a Dutch man so she understood the American kinds of things I wanted to know...one example, she knows how Europeans tend to say everything is a five minute walk and it could be much, much longer.  She appreciated all that I do alone and wanted to help me with questions I had along the way.  She is such a nice person so I'm glad I got to meet her and have her help for a while, so nice to be with someone who speaks the local language.  I'd forgotten the luxury of that since it has been so long since Cesar and I traveled together and he was able to communicate with almost all who came across our path.

We waited a bit for the hotel shuttle after we met at the airport when my train arrived, and then I dropped my things off at the hotel at the amsterdam airport I would return to the next day.  We boarded the bus to the town where the tulip gardens are.  I'd ended up reserving a room at the last minute to be close to the gardens rather than having to arrive by bus the next day.  That bus is the least expensive and most convenient way for me to get there.  Then the taxis are lined up there and I could get one to my hotel inexpensively.

We enjoyed more time visiting and then she made sure I got a taxi before her husband drove there to pick her up.  Interesting experience.  She is American and it is not obvious she speaks other languages.  She was able to understand as the head driver told the other what to charge me.  I'd been told it would be 10-15 euros and in Arabic and Dutch the taxi people discussed getting the most money from me, unaware she understood every word.  They will be in trouble, she will be letting the gardens know because that is not the way they are supposed to be doing business.  Of course I didn't know that at the time, but she said in English they were charging me 15 euros so at that point they knew she had understood.  The driver seemed nice and said I could pay him 10 if I wanted and I did.  So there I was checking into the nice hotel I had stayed at two years before.  There was a problem, a large group of uk people had checked into this small hotel and several of them were complaining at length about their rooms.  The girl behind the desk was almost in tears since there was no pleasing them.  Unfortunately, just before I walked in, my room had been given to two ladies who complained and I had to wait, even though it was well after the check in time, for them to get out of their room, which would now be my room.  I wasn't pleased, when the girl took me up to the room, way up steep stairs, it was clear they had settled in before deciding they didn't want to be there.  I felt sorry for the girl and there was nothing they could do, they were fully booked and I was stuck with a used room.  No discount because I'd prepaid   And already had breakfast with the room.  So I just sucked it up and will remind them if I ever stay again and maybe I'll get a discount.  At least when you check into a hotel room you like to think it is fresh and clean, although with all that has come out about that, it could be an illusion.  So I knew and got clean towels and a clean pillow case and was fine.  

Then it was time for one of the highlights...my Dutch pancake!  Oh, i'd looked forward to that!  This hotel is a short walk...short walk, that in itself was a pleasant thought after all my long treks in Paris, short walk to the restaurant  that I love in that town.  Last year this is the place where the taxi never came and the owners had to drive me back to the hotel because I was stranded.  I arrived and asked the server if I could say hello to the owners and she just led me right into the kitchen...oh what a greeting I got!  They definitely remembered me and the man stopped his cooking and came over and gave me a big hug and kisses.  His wife smiled a lot but was more reserved.  They were so impressed that once again their restaurant had been my first stop in town.  Oh, I do love their Dutch pancakes!  Yes, that is plural...first, the one covered with bacon (which is more like our ham), onions, mushrooms and cheese.  This is all baked into the very flat pancake which more resembles a crepe than our pancakes.  I chatted with some of the people who came in, it is a tiny place and there were other tourists, and on my recommendation, most people were eating pancakes.   When I had savored to the fullest the main dish pancake, it was time for the dessert one.  I ordered the banana one...it came open as they all do, topped with a sliced banana, small scoops of ice cream, whipped cream, powdered sugar and banana liquer.  The sweet server asked if I wanted a small one?  No, I said I'd traveled 5000 miles and didn't know when I'd ever have it again, so the regular one would be fine...oh, how delicious it was...just like I remembered.  Mission accomplished...one more favorite food enjoyed this trip!

A short walk to the hotel and then the long climb into the room and my day had ended...with dreams of tulips I drifted to sleep...

Next day, my alarm was set for quite early.  I was up during the night, as I am almost every night in Europe.  It isn't just the jet lag I realized, it is my excitement over the day to come.  It used to be worry, but now with my experience I don't worry because I know all will go well, and if not, well it works out somehow and that proved to be true on this day.  So I was awake with anticipation of the flower filled day to come.

I've been to the gardens 3 other times.  Once on a ships cruise and twice on my own.  Each of the last 2 visits and this one have been within a day of each other and yet every year what greets me is different.  Two years ago, the gardens were in full bloom and magnificent!  Last year the late winter delayed the blooming and I saw very few tulips and many hyacinths and daffodils.  I was disappointed, tulips are my love there.  This year a totally different experience, the tulips bloomed early and were well past their prime.  That is what I'd heard, but I was still excited to see the gardens, the landscaping is lovely and at least there would be some tulips left to enjoy.

This trip had a first, the one day I had to visit the gardens happened to be the busiest day of the year, the day of the big flower parade.  I'd almost canceled the visit to the gardens, 1,000,000 people were expected to see the parade as it traveled through the country, and over 60,000 would be visiting the gardens.  Then I decided I would just make it 1,000,001 and partake in the experience.  It is hard to explain the continuous planning and rearranging that went into making the logistics work.  The previous times I've arrived at the gardens before opening and been the first or second in.  I'd planned on a visit early and hoped to slip out before the crowds.  Well so much for planning, the crowds were there and waiting when I arrived 20 minutes before opening.  I was impressed the gardens opened early, quite considerate considering all the people waiting...I've not ever seen anywhere that did that.  I had checked out of the hotel and had my rolling tote with me so I stored it in a locker there.  That way when I left I wouldn't have to go back into the town traffic to get it.

So perhaps this time I was the hundredth or so in.  It didn't matter.  I felt lucky because I am familiar with the layout and while most people were oohing and ahhing at the entrance and down the main walkway, I was off on a side path that wasn't even noticed by most.  I was pleased that I was going to have some time after all to enjoy the peace, solitude, birds and flowers for a bit before sharing with the crowds.  And that I did.  Yes, there were a lot of places where the flowers had been headed, but many beautiful flowers had awaited my arrival.  I'm looking forward to seeing my pictures and hoping for some beautiful ones.  The green, previous blooming areas, were probably not focused on by most, the thrill of spending time tip toeing through the tulips was probably the focus.

I ended up spending more time than I'd expected and after purchasing a couple of little things and my calendar I was off on the next step of my day.  Well, after a stop for a sugar waffle that is.  It is like the ones I love in Belgium.  And as I attempted to leave the gardens I truly came up against a wall of people flowing in!   I've never seen anything like it...not a gap as far as I could see, for me to walk towards the exit, they came by the hundreds.  Almost a scary scene as I picture it in my mind now.  I eventually made it out of the craziness and was glad I was out of there!  I felt some people were so rude and inconsiderate, but most were enthralled with the beauty, at least what they could see of it.  Do not visit the gardens on parade day!

I went out to the information office and they called the one taxi driver that could work there that day and directed me to the main road outside of the gardens where he would pick me up in 15 minutes.  My plan was to attend the flower parade in a small village a few miles away, where not many people were expected to be.  It goes through the countryside so local people ride their bikes to get away from the crowds and watch from the country roads.  My plan was the best way I could think of to get away from the crowds and be able to see the parade flower floats.  But, alas, it wasn't to be.  The taxi driver never showed up, probably in some terrible traffic, so after waiting almost an hour, until I knew it was too late to make the parade in the village, I started the long walk(for me) back up to the gardens to take the bus to the airport and go to my hotel there.  

There is a bus that goes from the airport to the gardens and back, and on this day they had doubled the buses I'd been told.  I was dragging , rather than rolling, my rolling tote.  Wheels don't work in the fine gravel they had on the roads.  I was hiking back up to where I could get a bus back, thinking I'd be the only one heading back that early.  A bus headed back came up the road and I waved and he kindly opened the door.  I asked if he was returning and if I could ride with him.  He said there was a long line up at the gardens for the return buses but he was going back empty to get more people.  I wasn't sure I would make the walk back up there or even be able to stand in a long line.  My feet had served me well all morning and were done.  I told him my situation, had waited almost an hour on the main road for the taxi and now would miss the parade.  He took pity on me, told me to get on and he would be my private driver back to the airport.  He wouldn't let me pay him, he said it was a gift for me.  How kind!  We really had a nice time, there wasn't traffic that direction and he was happily telling me about different parts of his country.  The 30 minute ride was pleasant and when we arrived I couldn't thank him enough for his kindness.  As I left my private bus, I was shocked at what I saw...the line to board the buses to the garden wound  around the entire railing area they had arranged and went in front of the airport from end to end...an unbelievable sight!  Everyone calm in spite of the very long wait to board the buses that would take them into the masses of more people.  I regretted that my plan to see the famous parade didn't work out, but was quite relieved I would be far from the madness of that many people!

I called the hotel for the shuttle and within minutes I was headed to my hotel.  Oh, how nice a nap would be...but how could I sleep with so many things to see!  I checked in and was appalled to find out wifi in the room would cost almost 30 euros!  Outrageous!  When I walked in my room and saw some slippers on the bed, I decided that maybe they should give guests the wifi and charge 30 euros for the slippers, those I could live without.  I wanted to look up ideas and info for the city on line but had to go back down to the lobby to do that...a pain!

There were two young men that were the bellmen, concierge, drivers and they were incredibly helpful!  I have decided that the people in that position are my favorite people in the hotel industry.  In every case, they are the most helpful and most considerate of all.  So here they were great and one of them was from the town were the parade ended at night and he encouraged me to go there to see it.  I was happy that I would see it after all...well at least I thought I would see it.  So what to do in the afternoon?  Sleep sounded good, it had already been a busy day, but how could I do that on my last day in Amsterdam? I couldn't...so I repacked my day bag and off I went again...2nd big adventure of the day. 

Bought a train ticket from the airport to the central station and headed in with the plan to visit the big museum there.when I arrived there were mobs of people everywhere.  How could that be?  I was sure they were all at the gardens!  But apparently there were enough people in town to fill up the city too.  I was soon on a tram, through crowded streets, to the ryksmuseum...a lady I talked to told me what I should see there, good thing, I wouldn't want to miss anything important.  I didn't spend long there, but enjoyed it.  Again, I had found another place that was packed though, so leaving sooner rather than later was fine with me. I love Impressionism paintings, but must admit that seeing Rembrandt's paintings in person was thrilling.  The opportunity to see things in person like that make it easy to see why they are masterpieces.  Different, but amazing and I was so glad I went.

Made the long journey to the hotel and again, so tempted I was to just lie down and sleep, but I resisted.  It was my last night in Europe so I just had to have one last experience...the flower parade.  And what an experience it was!

First I had to head to Harlaam, a very nice town in the Netherlands.  I think I may be spelling it wrong.  That was a new town for me so I left the hotel with explicit details of what to do to get to the town and then to the parade.  So off I went on bus 300, one last big adventure...

I must have slept a bit because the 45 minute bus trip was quite short, just glad I woke up in time for my stop.  I got off the bus and asked directions to the parade.  As with many  main bus stations, it was not in the best of places.  Not the worst either.  What happened next reminded me of an incident from long ago...

I was in France with a friend, her brother and Cesar.  It was my first trip to Europe not being on a cruise and I was terrified of everything, the same trip I'd gotten lost on.  We were in Place de Concorde and Cesar turned me to face him and said I had to promise not to panic when he told me something.  I didn't want to promise, it may have been our first trip together but I knew him well enough to know not to promise anything.  He wouldn't give up and finally I decided it couldn't be anything so bad since we were in Paris so what was I to do?  I promised that I wouldn't panic as long as he wasn't going to leave me alone.  He then turned me toward the arc de triomphe, in the very, very far distance and told me we were going to walk there!  I got upset and said that was impossible and he said we would go slowly, stop when we needed to, but we would be walking down the Champs d'Élysées!  He said I'd promised not to get upset, and off we went.  I knew my feet were so bad that I would never make it! But I did, and what an accomplishment that was!  

Well here I was, alone now, and when I asked where the main square was and a man on the street pointed to a church way, way down the street, I knew there was no way I would ever make it.  At the church i had to turn to get to where the parade would be.  I asked a taxi in the long taxi line to take me as close as possible and he refused, didn't want to lose his place in line for such a short trip!  He told me the roads were closed for the parade.  Well he was lying, the road was open all the way to the church, but not beyond.  So I had a decision to make, try to make the long walk both ways or turn around and give up and take the next bus back.  Old me, would have turned back in a minute.  New me decided I could make it and I really wanted to see that beautiful flower parade.  (try to focus on beautiful...I'd heard that since the tulips bloomed three weeks early they had to use hyacinths instead but it would be beautiful!). So off I went, slow and steady...well very slow and not so steady.  

Another thing that concerned me was that I didn't see anyone anywhere.  If there were a parade, wouldn't everyone be flocking to it?  Eventually I came to a man washing his car windows and he said I was indeed going the right way and the people would be gathering later.  Apparently I was early.  So trudge ahead I did and finally I was at the church and people were going both directions so I asked a policeman where to go.  He told me the best place was a couple of blocks further and I said I couldn't walk any further.  I asked him if it was going to be safe walking that far down that dark street alone after the parade and he said I wouldn't be alone and it was probably safer than wherever I am from in the states, the only difference is that people might be high on drugs.  I told him I was from Colorado so that wasn't any different.  He and the other police around them laughed and we talked a bit about that.  I asked why there weren't many people there and he said the parade had a big delay, one of the trucks had broken down and created it.  He wasn't sure when it would be arriving.  

I wasn't hungry, did I mention I did stop for frietes with joppiesaus when I was in Amsterdam?  I love that sauce, it is a sweet, mustardy sauce with onions...another of my favorite Dutch foods.  I like different sauces on my Belgian frietes, but this one is the best in holland for me.  But there wasn't a place to sit without buying something so I decided on another new experience and headed to a Mexican restaurant.  It was very cold out, even with my zip in lining in my coat, so I decided to go inside and warm up until the parade arrived. And I was interested in just what a Dutch Mexican restaurant was like...another new experience.

I had the most delightful server.  A darling kid in a bright pink ruffley shirt, yes, I guess it was rather fitting.  That in itself was funny enough, but he was so funny.  I said I just had to find out what Dutch Mexican food tasted like and he said it would be similar to texmex, but DutchMex instead.  I asked how he knew about texmex in the Netherlands.  So I ordered something simple and when it came I took a bite of the cheese balls, a Mexican food I'd never heard of before, and it was so hot, temp hot.  Think it must have been a DutchMex food after all.  I finished that and the quacamole which tasted not too real and then headed out...surely the parade was almost there.

I talked to another policeman, a big Dutch man and he was so funny.  We chatted a lot and waited and waited and waited.  Then out of the blue a car came driving down the street, and both policemen were there in an instant making him turn around.  I'd told them I needed a taxi and Made them laugh when I asked if they would get that car back to give me a ride back to the station.  It was bitter cold by then, I'd decided to sit at one of the outdoor cafes hoping they would let me sit and they did.  I was next to a young couple and they were telling me about how beautiful the parade is.  Okay, I'm freezing...my feet hurt...I'm beyond exhausted...I had a LONG walk back for a LONG bus ride...I had to pack and be up early for the flight home...and there I sit in a little town in the Netherlands waiting for a parade.  Now I don't know if anyone has thought of this yet...but I hadn't...it was now after 10 PM...and very dark!  Finally my new friend came over and told me he just got word that the parade would really be there in 5 minutes.

Do you know what beautiful flower floats look like in the dark?  Let me tell you, it doesnt look like much!  eventually I found out...they look like a bunch of dark flowers!!  Eventually one float came by and another and another, 4 of the 16 floats passed by in the dark heading to the main square to park.   End of parade...the other floats seem to have not made it.  What I went through to see a flower parade in the cold, dark night was unbelievable!  But luckily I was too tired to care, I was more concerned about the very long walk back and finding my way. The policeman was so nice when I left and if I ever find myself there again, well I hope our paths cross.  Probably not, but for a night he made it fun to be at the flower parade.  

Not my best plan or experience...but I guess that journey was special in a way, who else will ever have a parade story like mine!  :-). 

I made the walk back, found the station and the right bus and I must have looked as bad as I felt because the rather gruff driver would not let me pay the 5 euros for my ticket, he said the trip was on him.  So many kind people along the way that day!  So I wonder, do I say I saw the flower parade or not!?

Checking in at the airport in Amsterdam has changed...now you have to take out every electronic device, camera AND cord at security!  I carry all my chargers with me and I kept pulling them out, more and more and finally the man told me I'd taken out enough...and on I went.  The business lounge was the barest of service and the plane so old it sounded scary...travel today has changed...

End of story...end of trip...and now I return home to my four legged friends anxiously awaiting my return...au revoir Europe...carry on without me...